Friday, December 28, 2007
Thursday, December 20, 2007
There are no wireless signals to make our laptop work at our GG'ma's house so we won't be wooffing until we get back home. *pouts* We should be coming home between the wedding and Christmas, but we don't know if we will for sure.
If we don't get on before Christmas, we wish you ALL a Very Merry Christmas! We hope you all get lots of pressies from Santa Paws and special Christmas dinner!! Have a wonderful time with all your friends and family. We will miss you all bunches and can't wait to get back to hear what every pup got from Santa Paws!
HAVE FUN EVERYPUP!!!!
♥ Denali, Starr & Faith
PS: Mommy and Daddy want to wish all your pawrents a very Merry Christmas too. They say to be healthy and save and drive careful when travelling.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
I thought this was super cute and wanted to share it.
With the howliday season upon us I am sure many of us pups may be doing some travelling. This is no exception for us. With Mommy and Daddy's wedding being out of town, we will be going along with them for the trip and festivities!!! YAY! And then it will CHRISTMAS and we will be going along to visit all our family. ♥ The howliday season is so much fun.
- Keep your pets safe and secure in a well-ventilated crate or carrier. There are a variety of wire mesh, hard plastic and soft-sided carriers available. Whatever you choose, make sure it’s large enough for your pet to stand, sit, lie down and turn around in. And P.S., it’s smart to get your pet used to the carrier in the comfort of your home before your trip.
- Your pet’s travel-feeding schedule should start with a light meal three to four hours prior to departure. Don’t feed your furry friend in a moving vehicle—even if it is a long drive.
- Never leave your animal alone in a parked vehicle. In cold weather, a car can act as a refrigerator, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death.
- What in your pet’s traveling kit? In addition to travel papers, food, bowl, leash, a waste scoop, plastic bags, grooming supplies, medication and a pet first-aid kit, pack a favorite toy or pillow to give your pet a sense of familiarity.
- Make sure your pet wears a collar with an ID tag imprinted with your home address, as well as a temporary travel tag with your cell phone, destination phone number, and any other relevant contact information.
- Traveling across state lines? Bring along your pet’s rabies vaccination record, as some states requires this proof at certain interstate crossings. While this generally isn’t a problem, it’s always smart to be on the safe side.
- When it comes to H2O, we say BYO. Opt for bottled water or tap water stored in plastic jugs. Drinking water from an area he’s not used to could result in tummy upset for your pet.
Source: ASPCA Website
Wishing you all safe and happy travels this howliday season!
Friday, December 14, 2007
***And a carol for us Staffies and all other bullies!!***
T'was the night before Christmas and the shelter is dark, The whole place is silent, not even a bark. The dogs are all locked in their pens for the night, The staff has gone home and turned out the light.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
- CHICKEN: breasts (boneless and bone-in), quarters, wings, backs, necks, hearts, feet
- BEEF: roasts (all different cuts), stewing beef bones, ribs (all different cuts), ground beef, tongue, bleached honeycomb tripe, liver
- PORK: chops (all different cuts), roasts (all different cuts), ribs (all different cuts), kidneys, feet, tails
- LAMB: shoulder chops
- GOAT: random pieces
- SMELTS: gutted and deheaded with bone in
Here is a list of some of the things in the freezer we are waiting to try:
- CHICKEN: whole chicken, frames, gizzards
- BEEF: lung, heart
- PORK: hocks, snout, ears, liver, stomach
- STEWING HEN: whole hen
- TURKEY: breast (bone-in), wings, thighs, drums, feet, gibblets
- QUAIL: whole quail
- SALMON: heads
- MACKERAL: whole mackeral
- CORNISH HEN: whole hen
- DUCK: whole duck
Here is a list of some of the things we are looking for to try:
- CHICKEN: heads, ground chicken
- BEEF: green tripe, brains
- PORK: brains, testicles, ground pork
- LAMB: roast, leg, organs, ground lamb
- GOAT: roast, leg, organs, ground goat
- RABBIT: whole, all parts, organs, etc.
- OTHER WILD GAME: all parts, organs, etc.
- OTHER FISH: all parts, organs etc.
Are you grossed out yet? Mommy and Daddy thought it was pretty gross, but now they love feeding us our meet. They have broadened their horizians and have been trying new things since starting us on our diet. YAY MOMMY & DADDY!
Here are some basic Prey Model guidelines:
Why feed raw?
- Prey model feeders feel that dogs are physiologically carnivores. Dogs have been shown by geneticists to be a variation of the grey wolf. They differ by 0.2% in the mitochondrial DNA (and I suspect much of this difference has to do with coloring and shape and size).
- David Mech, the forefront wolf biologist who has studied them intensely in their own natural habitat (not an artificial wolf colony), has observed that as natural carnivores, the wolf's diet consists mostly of large prey, and supplemented by smaller prey in leaner times, and very occasionally, he'll notice some vegetation grazing, but again only during extremely lean times. Wolves are carnivores. They CAN subsist on non-meat products, but by and large, they need raw prey to thrive and reproduce.
- So by trying to appropriate a whole prey through feeding of various body parts, we feed what the dog has been designed by nature to eat. Because the dog's physiology is designed to be carnivorous, this is what we feed them.
- no grinding molars (all sharp scissor like teeth)
- strong wide jaws to really open up, take in a large piece, and crunch down and gnaw
- no amylase in the saliva to begin digestion, and therefore, very acidic stomach juices (at about 1 - 2 on the litmus scale, 7 being neutral - humans' stomach acidity is only around 5)
- very short digestive tract to keep food moving along out
- not to mention they are natural hunters, every dog has an instinct to hunt - this instinct is part and parcel of being a carnivore. I don't see wolves stalking a berry branch...
- By that logic, because a dog/wolf is designed to feed the way they do in teh wild, evolution has shown us this is path of least resistance. To ask your dog to eat what they're not biologically designed to do is therefore providing obstacles along the path of least resistance. To many rawfeeders, this is basically asking for trouble.
How much to feed?
- Essentially, most dogs require about 2 - 3% of their body in raw food to maintain good health and weight. Working dogs may require more, some furry couch warmers may require 1%.
- This amount that you determine what your dog does well on is a trial and error kind of thing. Most people start with 2%, then either feed more or back up depending on how their dog's body feels.
- The amount does NOT have to be the exact same amount every day. Some days you can certainly feed more, then feed slightly less the next day to compensate for the larger amount of food prior. Some people feed the gorge/fast method, where they allow their dogs to eat two or three times the daily amount, then just fast their dogs the next day or however long, to compensate again for the larger amount.
- Know your dog. I have a self-regulator on my hands who generally will only eat about twice the daily amount even though there may be five days worth of food sitting in front of her in the form of a goat leg. She won't fast herself the next day, she'll just eat slightly less than normal. Again, use the dog's body and energy level as a guideline. Looking porky? back off on the amount, and feed slightly less fatty if necessary. (Although fat is an integral part of the diet...)
- You can feed once a day, or twice a day. It's up to you.
- Puppies? Most raw prey model feeders feed 2 - 3% of the projected adult body weight. So a little GSD puppy, who may grow to be 80 lbs, will still be fed about 2% of the 80 lbs as a puppy. Just spaced out over a few feedings since puppies do better wiht more frequent feedings. Once they hit about 6 mths, you can back off to twice a day, and once a year old, you can do once a day, or even the gorge/fast if that's what you prefer.
What to include in the diet?
-Prey model feeders don't generally feed anything other than raw meat, edible bone, and organs. We don't think veggies form a necessary part of the diet because a) we subscribe to dogs being carnivores following their physiology; b) veggies and fruit form only about 1% of the grey wolf's natural diet - it's more like grazing on a sweet berry if it's there. Kiind of like the way I like to nosh on candy.
- The ratio of meat/bone/organs is 80%/10%/10%. Half the organ allotment is liver, following the notion that the liver is the largest internal secreting organ. We use this ratio as kind of the general ratio that most prey animals are in their makeup. It may vary, of course, and again, this 80/10/10 ratio is a guideline, but really most animals are made in ratios not too far from this one.
- Meat: this is muscle meats. Muscle attached to bones, and also parts of the body that are organs, but are muscular in nature (non-secreting). This includes, tongue, heart, gizzards, trachea, skin (yes skin secretes, but it secretes waste through water and salt aka sweat OUT of the body, so we don't count that, hee.) I count stomach as a muscle meat, but in keeping to form with the whole prey, I don't stomach as the main part of the meat ratio - so despite how much Summer adores green tripe, she only gets it a couple times a week.
- Edible bone: we consider weight-bearing bones of large animals as teeth breakers and not very edible. Edible bones tend to be less dense, more porous. Depending on the size of the dog, edible bones range from chickens, to turkey, to duck, to fish, to rabbit, to pork, to goat, to lamb. Some powereaters do manage to chew off the ends of beef ribs. It's a Know Thy Dog situation.
- Secreting organs: liver should be half the organ allotment. The rest can be made up of kidney, spleen, thymus, pancreas, lung, testicles (mountain oysters), brains.
NOTE: remember, we call it prey model, because those of us who can't feed whole prey, we try to appropriate the whole prey through various body parts at various times. It's a prey built over time. Frankenprey, as many people call it.
So again, this ratio can be met over time. It helps me to know how much Summer eats in a week, roughly, then cut up hunks of organs that make up 10% of the weekly amount. Then these organ hunks can be fed throughout the week. This way, I know in each week, Summer is getting 10% of organs in her diet, and half of this is liver. (So the 10% organ amount is divided into 4 smaller hunks, and twice a week, she gets a liver hunk, and twice a week she gets other organ hunks. I space out the variety to give it more balance.)
Another note about edible bone - most store bought cuts of meat with bone in them tend to be high in bone. So even if you see a nice pork shoulder roast covered in gobs of meat, the bone in there probably makes up about 15 - 20% of the piece. Store bought whole chickens have been gutted and de-feathered, so the bone ratio tends to be a little higher than real whole prey. I like to feed more meat when I find what I'm feeding Summer may possibly have too much bone in there. (Which is most of the time.) How to tell? Look at the writing in the poop! If your dog is straining slightly, and the poops come out crumbly and powdery and once they hit the ground, they fall apart, that's generally too much bone. If the poops are squishy and have no form (NOT diarrhea), then feed a tad more bone. It doesn't take a huge bone tweak to make a difference in the poop.
Here are some websites about Raw Feeding: